It's a steak with the texture of foie gras, and it comes from cattle that, according to legend, are fed beer and massaged by human hands. In its raw state, the meat is pale--almost white--packed with what Chef de Cuisine David Varley of Las Vegas' Bradley Ogden restaurant calls "an ungodly amount of fat."
This marbled delicacy is the product of Japanese beef cattle, or "Wagyu," raised both in and outside of Japan, and it dominates high-end steak menus internationally. We spoke with chefs and managers at fine steakhouses worldwide, as well as beef producers, butchers and meat experts, to compile our list of the world's most expensive steaks.
Palm, New York City
16-Oz Prime New York Strip
On the side: Cottage fries
Marcus Nilsson
Jess & Jim's, Kansas City, Missouri
KC Playboy Strip
On the side: Twice-baked one-and-a-half-pound Idaho potato
The Prime Rib, Baltimore
Prime Rib
On the side: Fried potato skins
At the Prime Rib, it's always 1965--the year it opened. The leopard-print dining room looks like George Steinbrenner's private club. The waiters wear tuxes. You wear a jacket. And the kitchen roasts the majestic prime rib, on the bone, its collar of fat suffused into the inner layer, the core a rose red, all of it giving off the intoxicating aroma of old money. 1101 North Calvert Street; 410-539-1804; theprimerib.com
Andrea's, Metairie, Louisiana
Bistecca Alla Pizzaiola
On the side: Angel's hair spaghetti with garlic and olive oil
Andrea Apuzzo is from Capri, and he has an artist's sense for seasoning old-fashioned dishes like this one, a thick sautéed rib eye doused with a spicy tomato-garlic sauce. Like the best Italian dishes, its simple parts add up to an unexpectedly powerful whole. 3100 Nineteenth Street; 504-834-8583; andreasrestaurant.com
Marcus Nilsson
Peter Luger, Brooklyn
Porterhouse
On the side: German fried potatoes
The place ain't much to look at, but man, there's a reason for the fame. It's the beef. Even Luger's competitors admit this institution (1887) serves the greatest of all porterhouses, each carcass handpicked by a Luger rep. Don't believe the ex-employees who've opened steakhouses and claim to get the same quality. And when Luger's can't get enough good steaks, it simply cuts back on reservations, which are already maddeningly difficult to get. 178 Broadway; 718-387-7400; peterluger.com
Sammy's Roumanian, New York City
Roumanian Tenderloin
On the side: Potato pancakes
Marcus Nilsson
Marcus Nilsson
Steak Frites, New York City
Steak Frites
On the side: Grilled asparagus
Churrascos, Houston
Churrascos
On the side: Yuca fries
Smith & Wollensky, New York City
Filet Mignon
On the side: Creamed spinach
Fleur de Lys, San Francisco
Tournedos Rossini
On the side: Pommes dauphinois (potatoes with cream, garlic, and a crust of baked cheese)
Marcus Nilsson
One If by Land Two If by Sea, New York City
Beef Wellington
On the side: Morels, asparagus, and baby leeks
Paris Coffee Shop, Fort Worth, Texas
Chicken-Fried Steak
On the side: Mashed potatoes and cream gravy
Benihana, Las Vegas
Teppanyaki Steak
On the side: Vegetable tempura
Lawry's the Prime Rib, Beverly Hills
English Cut
On the side: Baked potato
Kobe Club, New York City
Japanese Waygu Beef
On the side: Hash browns with lobster, chorizo, and crème fraîche